November – December 2026

Three options,
one trip

Palaces and Gaudí in Spain, coffee and the Caribbean in Colombia, or volcanoes and the reef in Guatemala and Belize. Pick one.

The options

Nov 15Nov 23Dec 1Dec 9Dec 16

Andalusia & Barcelona

Nov 17 – 29 · 11 nights

Classic Europe, pretty cities and great food

  • Food
  • Architecture
  • Old cities
  • Some ocean
  • Granada2 nights
  • Córdoba1 night
  • Seville4 nights
  • Barcelona4 nights

Shorter: no Barcelona · 7 nights

Lower budget: possible — plenty of good hotels for less, plus I might get hosted stays

FlightsCA$1,985HotelsCA$3,850For twoCA$5,835

Colombia

Nov 28 – Dec 10 · 12 nights

A bit of everything, city to jungle to beach

  • Big city
  • Coffee farms
  • Jungle
  • Beach time
  • Colonial town
  • Medellín3 nights
  • Coffee Triangle3 nights
  • Isla Barú3 nights
  • Cartagena3 nights

Shorter: coast only · 7 nights

Lower budget: can go down in the cities; in remote locations, better not to

FlightsCA$2,628HotelsCA$3,960For twoCA$6,588

Guatemala & Belize

Dec 4 – 14 · 9 nights

Nature and a more understated vibe

  • Volcanoes
  • Colonial town
  • Lake villages
  • Reef & beach
  • Antigua3 nights
  • Lake Atitlán3 nights
  • Ambergris Caye3 nights

Shorter: no Belize · 7 nights

Lower budget: can't really go lower — hotels there are kinda shit and expensive, as there's no real competition

FlightsCA$2,922HotelsCA$3,450For twoCA$6,372

17 – 29 November 2026

Andalusia & Barcelona,
eleven nights

In through Málaga, out of Barcelona. The Alhambra, a town on a cliff, the Mezquita, Seville after dark, and Gaudí to finish — all of it without the summer crowds.

GranadaNov 18–20 · 2
CórdobaNov 20–21 · 1
SevilleNov 21–25 · 4
BarcelonaNov 25–29 · 4

At a glance

Four bases, moved between by car, train and one short flight, with Ronda as a day trip from Seville. Late November is cool and mostly dry, the light is low and gold, and the queues are gone.

DatesBaseWhat it's forNights
Nov 18–20GranadaThe Alhambra, the old Moorish quarter, and time to get over the flight2
Nov 20–21CórdobaThe Mezquita at opening, before the groups1
Nov 21–25SevilleOrange trees, flamenco, tapas — and Ronda for a day4
Nov 25–29BarcelonaGaudí, the Gothic Quarter, the best food of the trip4

Granada

Nov 18–20 · 2 nights
Day15°NightCrisp and sunny. Cold once the sun drops — bring a proper coat for the evenings.

The last Moorish kingdom in Spain, and it still looks the part: a red fortress-palace on the hill, a maze of white lanes facing it across the valley, and the Sierra Nevada behind with the first snow on it. Order a drink in almost any bar and a plate of tapas comes with it, free.

The Court of the Lions through a screen of slender columns and carved plaster arches, the lion fountain in the middle of the courtyard.
Court of the Lions
The Alhambra's towers and walls glowing at sunset, with the Sierra Nevada behind in blue haze.
The Alhambra at sunset
The Partal: an arcaded tower and a palm tree reflected in a still pool under a blue sky.
The Partal
Wed Nov 18Arrival
Morning

You land in Málaga at 08:40. A driver takes you straight up to Granada, about an hour and a half through olive country.

Afternoon

Check in and sleep for a couple of hours — you'll have been travelling for a day. Then a slow wander into the Albaicín, the old Moorish quarter: white walls, tiny squares, the smell of wood smoke.

Evening

Sunset at the Mirador de San Nicolás, with the Alhambra turning red across the valley. Early tapas, early night.

Thu Nov 19The Alhambra
Morning

Sleep in, then a long breakfast. The body clock will still be somewhere over the Atlantic.

Afternoon

The Alhambra on an early-afternoon slot: the Nasrid Palaces first — carved plaster like lace, pools reflecting arches — then the fortress towers and the Generalife gardens as the light goes low.

Evening

Flamenco in a whitewashed cave in Sacromonte, a few metres from the guitar.

Stay · 2 nights

A room at Palacio de los Patos: a wide bed under an ornate stucco ceiling, fluted columns, marble lamps and a terracotta bench, in soft cream and oak.

Hospes Palacio de los Patos

Central Granada · Nov 18–20

A yellow 19th-century palace in its own walled garden, right in the middle of town. Inside it's been done over clean and modern — stucco ceilings and columns left in, everything else cream, oak and marble. The garden is full of orange trees, and at night they line the water with candles. There's a spa downstairs for the jet lag, and the cathedral and the bottom of the Albaicín are a short walk away.

from CA$350per night

Córdoba

Nov 20–21 · 1 night
Day18°NightSunny days, chilly nights down by the river.

Once the biggest city in Western Europe, now a small, quiet one built around a single astonishing building: a great mosque with a cathedral dropped into the middle of it. Sleeping here means you have the lanes to yourselves at night and the Mezquita first thing, before the day-trip groups arrive from Seville.

Inside the Mezquita: rows of red-and-white striped double arches on stone columns, a lone figure walking through.
The Mezquita
Córdoba from above: the Mezquita and its bell tower, the Roman bridge over the river, and white houses spreading back to the hills.
The Roman bridge
A narrow whitewashed lane with arches, iron balconies and flower pots lining the pebbled path.
The old quarter
Fri Nov 20Granada to Córdoba
Morning

The Arab baths in Granada at Hammam Al Ándalus: warm, hot and cold pools under lantern-lit vaults, and a massage. The best cure there is for the flight.

Afternoon

The fast train to Córdoba, about an hour and a half. Drop the bags and walk the old Jewish quarter — whitewashed lanes, flower-pot patios, the little synagogue.

Evening

Across the Roman bridge at sunset, with the Mezquita lit up behind you. Dinner in the old town.

Sat Nov 21The Mezquita
Morning

The Mezquita at opening: a forest of 850 columns with red-and-white striped arches running off in every direction, quiet before the groups come in. Then up the bell tower for the view over the rooftops.

Afternoon

Salmorejo for lunch — it was invented here — then 45 minutes on the fast train to Seville.

Evening

Check in and walk to the cathedral, lit up at night, through streets that smell of orange trees.

Stay · 1 night

The covered courtyard dining room: faded red-and-cream Renaissance frescoes on the walls, balconies with trailing plants, and tables set on a glass floor.

Hospes Palacio del Bailío

Old town, Córdoba · Nov 20–21

A palace put together from 16th- to 18th-century buildings on top of Roman ones, and you can see it: breakfast is served on a glass floor over the Roman remains, under walls still covered in the original frescoes. Rooms are painted too, with old portraits and carved wood, and there's a walled garden of orange trees for the evening. The Mezquita is an easy walk through the old town for opening time.

from CA$350per night

Seville

Nov 21–25 · 4 nights
Day20°NightThe warmest stop: lunch outside in the sun, a light jacket at night. Ronda is a few degrees cooler.

Seville is the warmest and loudest city in Andalusia — orange trees along every street, palaces around every corner, dinner never before ten — with a day out to Ronda, the white town on the edge of a gorge.

Plaza de España through a brick arch: a tall ornate tower, arcades and a tiled bridge over the canal.
Plaza de España
A narrow old-town street of ochre and pink houses with iron balconies, a man in a straw hat cycling down the cobbles.
Old town
Ronda from the air: the stone Puente Nuevo spanning the deep gorge, a waterfall below and the white town spreading back behind it.
Ronda, for a day
Sun Nov 22Palaces
Morning

The Real Alcázar at opening: a royal palace still in use, Moorish tiles and courtyards and gardens full of peacocks. Book the first slot.

Afternoon

The cathedral — the largest Gothic one in the world — and the climb up the Giralda tower on ramps built wide enough for a horse. Then the lanes of Barrio Santa Cruz.

Evening

Tapas the Sevillian way: standing at the bar, one plate at a time, moving on after each.

Mon Nov 23Triana
Morning

Plaza de España, a half-circle of tiled bridges and towers built for a world's fair, and the park around it.

Afternoon

Across the river to Triana, the old potters' and sailors' quarter: the market, the ceramic workshops, lunch by the water.

Evening

Flamenco in a small, serious venue — the real thing, not a dinner show.

Tue Nov 24Ronda
Morning

Leave by 8:00 with a driver — about 1h45 into the mountains — so you're on the bridge before the coaches arrive. Stop at Setenil de las Bodegas on the way, where the houses are built into the rock.

Afternoon

Across the Puente Nuevo, then down the path below it to see the bridge from the bottom of the 100-metre gorge — that's the shot. Lunch on the cliff edge.

Evening

Back in Seville by seven. Last night in Andalusia.

Stay · 4 nights

A room seen through carved mahogany doors: grey panelled walls, a large abstract painting over a white upholstered bed, velvet armchairs and herringbone floors.

CoolRooms Palacio de Villapanés

Santa Catalina, old town · Nov 21–25

A palace built in 1729 for an admiral of the Indies fleet, with the carved doors, marble columns and black-and-white floors still in place and the rooms done over in dark grey, velvet and big modern canvases. Up top, a roof terrace with the Giralda on the skyline — the place for a drink at sunset. There's a proper spa with a sauna and Turkish bath for after the Ronda day, and the old-town lanes and tapas bars start at the door.

from CA$300per night

Barcelona

Nov 25–29 · 4 nights
Day16°NightMild and mostly dry, with the odd grey day off the sea.

A completely different Spain: Catalan, fast, and obsessed with design. Gaudí's buildings look like they grew rather than were built, the medieval core is a knot of lanes, and it's the best place to eat on the whole trip — from market counters to tasting menus.

Casa Batlló's façade: mosaic tiles in blues and greens, mask-shaped balconies and bone-like columns around stained-glass windows.
Casa Batlló
The carved Gothic bridge over Carrer del Bisbe, between tall stone walls in the old quarter.
Gothic Quarter
The white Gothic-style church on top of Tibidabo, with the wooded Collserola hills rolling away behind.
Tibidabo
Wed Nov 25Up to Barcelona
Morning

A 1h35 flight from Seville.

Afternoon

Drop the bags and walk the Gothic Quarter and El Born — Roman walls, tiny squares, the Santa Maria del Mar church.

Evening

Vermouth, then dinner in El Born.

Thu Nov 26Gaudí
Morning

The Sagrada Família, first entry of the day, when the low sun comes through the stained glass and the whole nave turns orange and blue. Book the tower too.

Afternoon

Down Passeig de Gràcia to Casa Batlló and La Pedrera, and the rooftop chimneys that look like soldiers.

Evening

Dinner in Gràcia, the neighbourhood where locals actually go out.

Fri Nov 27Markets and hills
Morning

Park Güell early, then coffee at Nomad — one of the roasters that made Barcelona a coffee city.

Afternoon

Lunch at a counter in the Boqueria or Santa Caterina market, then the Picasso Museum.

Evening

Sunset from the Bunkers del Carmel, the old anti-aircraft battery with the whole city below.

Sat Nov 28Last day
Morning

Up Montjuïc by cable car for the Miró Foundation and the view over the port.

Afternoon

A slow walk along the seafront at Barceloneta, a long lunch of rice and seafood.

Evening

Farewell dinner. Keep it early — tomorrow starts at seven.

Sun Nov 29Home
Morning

The flight goes at 09:30 and the airport is about 25 minutes out, so leave by 07:00. Through Montreal, into Vancouver at 21:48.

Stay · 4 nights

The lounge: red velvet sofas, bookshelves, a starburst chandelier and a glass wall onto the garden.

Wittmore Hotel

Gothic Quarter · Nov 25–29

Hidden at the end of a dead-end lane in the old quarter, and adults only, so it's quiet the moment the door shuts. Inside it's a dark, clubby library — red velvet, books, a starburst chandelier — opening onto a courtyard with the biggest living wall in Barcelona. Up on the roof there's a terrace over the Gothic Quarter for a drink at the end of the day, and El Born, the cathedral and the Picasso Museum are all a few minutes' walk.

from CA$400per night

Flights

LegAirlineTimeCost for two
Vancouver → Málaga, Nov 17Porter TS7372, then Air Transat TS252, via Montreal09:40 → 08:40 · 15hCA$1,895
Seville → Barcelona, Nov 25Vueling1h35CA$90
Barcelona → Vancouver, Nov 29Air Transat TS261, then Porter TS7375, via Montreal09:30 → 21:48 · 20h18same ticket

28 November – 10 December 2026

Colombia,
twelve nights

In through Medellín, out of Cartagena. A city, a coffee farm, a quiet end of an island, and the walled town to finish.

MedellínNov 28 – Dec 1 · 3
Coffee TriangleDec 1–4 · 3
Isla BarúDec 4–7 · 3
CartagenaDec 7–10 · 3

Short version. If time is tight, it works as seven nights on the coast alone — fly straight into Cartagena, four nights on Isla Barú, then three in the old city.

At a glance

City first, three days in the coffee triangle, three nights on Barú, then Cartagena to finish. Four bases, no one-night stops.

DatesBaseWhat it's forNights
Nov 28 – Dec 1MedellínBig-city energy, the best food, valley views3
Dec 1–4Eje CafeteroCoffee at the source, and 60-metre wax palms3
Dec 4–7Isla BarúCaribbean reef, a plunge pool, nothing to do3
Dec 7–10CartagenaWalled city, street food, salsa till late3

Medellín

Nov 28 – Dec 1 · 3 nights
Day27°Night17°Spring-like all year. Late-season afternoon showers are likely, so plan outdoors for the morning.

The city everyone underestimates. It sits in a bowl of green mountains at 1,500 m, so it's 24°C every day of the year and cable cars run up the valley walls like buses. The food is the best you'll eat on this trip, and you're in El Poblado, walking distance to most of it.

Comuna 13: brightly painted brick houses stacked tightly up a steep hillside, balconies and washing lines layered one above the next.
Comuna 13
El Peñol, a huge granite monolith with a zigzag staircase up its face, standing over the green islands and inlets of the Guatapé reservoir.
El Peñol, Guatapé
A Metrocable gondola hanging above the city at sunset, the whole valley of low orange rooftops running back to the mountains.
Metrocable at dusk
Sat Nov 28Arrival
Evening

You land at 23:15, and it's about 45 minutes into the city, so you're checking in near midnight. Eat on the plane. Nothing is planned tonight and nothing should be.

Sun Nov 29The city
Morning

Comuna 13, starting by 8:30 to beat the crowds and the heat. Ride the outdoor escalators up the hillside and walk the murals.

Afternoon

Back downtown for the Museo de Antioquia and Plaza Botero, then a cupping at Pergamino in Poblado — book a day ahead.

Evening

Tasting menu at El Cielo, or something simpler and just as good at Oci.Mde. Sunday is quiet downtown, so stay around Poblado after dark.

Mon Nov 30Guatapé
Morning

Drive out at 7:00 (about 2h) and climb the 740 steps of El Peñol before the buses arrive.

Afternoon

A small private boat on the lake, then lunch in the painted town and a slow walk around the zócalos.

Evening

Back in the city by 6:00. Drinks in Laureles, or a late dinner at Alambique.

Stay · 3 nights

The Marquee rooftop: a long lap pool and hot tub behind glass balustrades, palms in planters, and the Medellín skyline with the Andes behind it.

Marquee Hotel

El Poblado, Medellín · Nov 28 – Dec 1

The roof looks straight down the valley at the mountains — go up before dinner, when the light goes. Downstairs is a dark bar with a wall of backlit bottles and live jazz Thursday to Saturday, and a deep tub in the room for after. Pergamino, the best coffee in the city, is a ten-minute walk.

from CA$270per night

Coffee Triangle

Dec 1–4 · 3 nights
Day24°Night15°Warm days, cool nights up in the hills. Expect a short afternoon downpour most days.

Three nights in Quindío, the heart of the Eje Cafetero, where the coffee gets serious. Base out in the hills above Circasia rather than in a town. Warm days, cool nights, and the Cocora Valley within reach.

Hands sorting a spread of freshly picked coffee cherries, red and green, among glossy leaves on a blue tarpaulin.
The day's cherries
Wax palms towering far above the tree line on misty green hills, cloud drifting through the Cocora Valley.
Cocora Valley
A pale blue VW camper parked on a Salento street corner, under white buildings with bright yellow and blue balconies.
Salento
Tue Dec 1Into the coffee triangle
Morning

A proper last breakfast — the flight isn't until 13:40, and it goes from Olaya Herrera inside the city, so you leave the hotel around 12:15.

Afternoon

Forty-five minutes to Pereira, landing at 14:25, then about an hour by road up to Circasia. You're there with the afternoon still going.

Evening

Dinner at Basto, the hotel restaurant.

Wed Dec 2The farm day
Morning

The whole process on a specialty farm — pick with the crew, then depulping, fermentation, the drying beds. Ask to see the parchment and the sorting, not just the walk-around.

Afternoon

Roast and cup what they make, three or four lots side by side. Book a proper cupping rather than a tasting — this is the afternoon he'll remember.

Evening

Back for the infinity pool at golden hour, then dinner.

Thu Dec 3Cocora and Salento
Morning

Leave by 7:00 for the Cocora Valley, about 35 minutes. Wax palms 60 m tall standing in open pasture, the tallest in the world. Go early — better light, and the jeeps land around 9:30.

Afternoon

Lunch in Salento, then on to Filandia, the quieter and prettier of the two painted towns. Room for one more small roaster here if he's still going.

Evening

Last dinner at the hotel — book the spa first if there's time.

Stay · 3 nights

The terrace pool at dusk, its edge running out over the hillside, with the lit bedroom of the suite open behind it.

The rooms are built into the hillside, each with its own pool on the terrace. The glass one over the forest is separate, up at the spa — and they light the fire pits in the garden at dusk.

Bio Habitat

In the hills above Circasia, Quindío · Dec 1–4

The pool is glass and juts out over the forest — you swim to the edge and there's nothing underneath you but canopy. Steam room, Turkish bath, sauna. The farms are down the hill and Cocora is 35 minutes off, so you can be out among the wax palms by eight and back before lunch.

from CA$400per night

Isla Barú

Dec 4–7 · 3 nights
Day31°Night25°Sea28°Hot, humid and turning dry. Sea like a bath.

Three nights on Isla Barú, the peninsula southwest of Cartagena — white sand down one side, mangrove down the other. The Rosario Islands are half an hour offshore, so you get the reef without giving up a real hotel.

Straight down on the coast: dense coconut palms giving onto a strip of pale sand, then clear shallow turquoise water with swimmers in it.
Palms to the water
A green hammock slung between two palms on an empty beach, the sea flat and pale blue behind it.
Nothing to do
A painted drinks cart parked on the sand under a white parasol, stacked with pineapples, bottles and cold drinks.
The drinks cart
Fri Dec 4Coffee to the coast
Morning

Early breakfast, then away by 07:45 — it's an hour to Pereira and the flight goes at 10:32.

Afternoon

You land in Cartagena at 11:53. The hotel's transfer down to the southern tip takes about 45 minutes by boat, or a little over an hour by road, so you're on the island by early afternoon with the day still ahead.

Evening

Drop the bags, swim before dark, dinner at the hotel.

Sat Dec 5Islas del Rosario
Morning

A private boat from the hotel dock out to the Rosarios, 30–40 minutes across the shallows. Go private rather than on a group tour — same islands, none of the schedule.

Afternoon

Snorkelling on the reef, lunch at an island beach club, back before the afternoon wind picks up.

Evening

Sunset from the sand, dinner with your feet in it.

Sun Dec 6Nothing day
Morning

Kayaks out through the mangroves, or snorkel straight off the cove — the water here is shallow and still.

Afternoon

The plunge pool, a book, a long lunch at the floating restaurant. This is the day with nothing in it.

Evening

A massage, then dinner by candlelight.

One thing to know. Las Islas is at the southern tip, so there is nothing else within reach — no bar down the beach, no village. That's the point, but it does mean every meal is at the hotel. The other thing: the loud end of Barú, where the day boats unload onto Playa Blanca, is a long way up the island, so none of that reaches you here.

Stay · 3 nights

Looking straight down on the hotel: big round thatched roofs among dense green trees, a strip of pale sand and clear shallow water.

Hotel Las Islas

Southern tip of Isla Barú · Dec 4–7

Thatched bungalows scattered through the trees at the far end of the island — some up in the canopy, some down at the water, each with its own deck. The restaurant floats. The beach is a small, still cove rather than a long strand, and you snorkel straight off it.

from CA$350per night

Cartagena

Dec 7–10 · 3 nights
Day31°Night25°Sea28°Dry season starting, with a breeze off the water. Midday is fierce — go out early and late.

Three nights to finish. About 31°C and dry, so mornings and evenings outside, afternoons in the shade or a pool.

A narrow street at dusk under lit lanterns, wooden balconies either side, and the cathedral's pink dome and bell tower closing the view.
The cathedral at dusk
A palenquera in a yellow, blue and red ruffled dress, carrying a metal bowl of pineapples and mangoes balanced on her head.
A palenquera
Looking down from the city walls at sunset over a yellow colonial house with white balconies and bougainvillea, a pair of bare legs dangling in the corner of the frame.
On the walls
Mon Dec 7Barú to Cartagena
Morning

A last swim, then leave around 10:00. About 1h15 by car, or 45 minutes by boat straight to the old city dock.

Afternoon

Check in, shower, siesta. The heat here is a different animal.

Evening

Velitas, when the whole country lights candles on doorsteps and balconies. Wander the old town and Getsemaní after dark with nothing booked to rush for. The best photography night of the trip.

Tue Dec 8Food and salsa
Morning

Bazurto market — fruit you've never seen, fried fish, juice stands, the best food in the city. Go early and keep it simple: it's chaotic and very real.

Afternoon

Castillo San Felipe late in the day, or La Popa for the view over the bay.

Evening

A small sunset boat in the bay, then salsa at Café Havana.

Wed Dec 9Slow last day
Morning

The old town at 7:00 while it's cool and empty — Santo Domingo, the flower balconies, coffee at Época. Then Getsemaní street art, or the pool if the heat wins.

Afternoon

Shopping in Las Bóvedas, a massage, coffee somewhere cold.

Evening

Farewell dinner at Celele, a drink at Alquímico.

Thu Dec 10Home
Morning

The flight goes at 09:25 and the airport is 20 minutes away, so it's a 07:00 start. Ask the hotel the night before for coffee and something to take with you.

Stay · 3 nights

Looking down on the hotel roof: a long turquoise pool, curtained cabanas and orange parasols, set among the ochre walls and terracotta rooftops of the old city.

Casa Carolina

Calle del Arzobispado, inside the walls · Dec 7–10

A restored colonial house standing directly across from the cathedral, so the tower is the view from the roof. Up there too: a bar run with El Barón, which is on the World's 50 Best list. Downstairs the courtyard is all stone arches and lantern light, with a swing seat hanging over the water.

from CA$300per night

Flights

LegAirlineTimeCost for two
Vancouver → Medellín, Nov 28Porter, then Air Transat, via Toronto07:00 → 23:15 · 13h15CA$2,246
Medellín → Pereira, Dec 1Clic Air VE9056, from Olaya Herrera13:40 → 14:25 · 45 minCA$178
Pereira → Cartagena, Dec 4JetSMART JA554010:32 → 11:53 · 1h21CA$204
Cartagena → Vancouver, Dec 10Air Transat, then Porter, via Montreal09:25 → 21:48 · 15h20same ticket

4 – 14 December 2026

Guatemala & Belize,
nine nights

In through Guatemala City, out of Belize. Volcano country, a crater lake with three volcanoes across it, and the reef to finish.

AntiguaDec 5–8 · 3
Lake AtitlánDec 8–11 · 3
Ambergris CayeDec 11–14 · 3

At a glance

Highlands first — volcanoes, markets and the lake — then a short flight across to the Caribbean. December is dry on both sides.

DatesBaseWhat it's forNights
Dec 5–8AntiguaCobblestones, ruins, lava fields, Fuego at night3
Dec 8–11Lake AtitlánThree volcanoes, markets, villages by boat3
Dec 11–14Ambergris CayeThe second-largest reef on earth, no shoes3

Antigua

Dec 5–8 · 3 nights
Day23°Night11°Dry and sunny, but cold once the sun drops. Bring a warm layer for the evenings.

A colonial town of painted walls and cobbles, boxed in by three volcanoes — and one of them, Fuego, is erupting most nights, which you can watch from a rooftop with a drink. Everything is walkable, the ruined churches are half the charm, and the cafés are as good as anywhere in Central America.

The view from Cerro de la Cruz: the grid of orange rooftops and ruined churches running down to Volcán de Agua under cloud.
From Cerro de la Cruz
A coral-pink street corner with a barred window of painted wooden animals, a woman carrying a canvas, and a tuk-tuk on the cobbles.
Street corner, old town
The yellow Santa Catalina arch with its clock tower, framing the cone of Volcán de Agua down the cobbled street.
Santa Catalina arch
Sat Dec 5Arrival
Morning

You land at 11:51, after the overnight through Calgary and Panama City. About an hour up the hill, so you're in Antigua by early afternoon.

Afternoon

Drop the bags and walk it: the yellow arch of Santa Catalina with Volcán de Agua behind it, the cathedral ruins, the market, a coffee at Artista de Café on the way round.

Evening

Early dinner in town, and Fuego from a rooftop if the sky is clear.

Sun Dec 6Volcano
Morning

Pacaya, an hour out of town: a two-hour hike up through the pines onto black lava fields that are still warm underfoot, with steam coming out of the cracks and Fuego smoking across the valley.

Afternoon

Back for a late lunch, then up to Cerro de la Cruz for the view over the whole grid of rooftops to the volcano.

Evening

Dinner in town — book somewhere good, this is the night for it.

Mon Dec 7Out of town
Morning

The villages in the valley: San Antonio Aguas Calientes, where the women weave on backstrap looms and will show you how it works, then the macadamia farm at Valhalla for pancakes and a tour.

Afternoon

Back for the spa, or the ruined convents you haven't seen yet — Las Capuchinas is the good one.

Evening

Last night in Antigua.

Stay · 3 nights

A room at San Rafael: a four-poster bed, a stone fireplace with a lit chandelier above it, a carved mirror and a sofa, under a high beamed ceiling.

Hotel San Rafael

Central Antigua · Dec 5–8

A colonial house behind a plain wall in the middle of town, and much bigger inside than it looks. Rooms have beamed ceilings four metres up, a working fireplace they light for you, and a chandelier over the bed. The courtyard is cypresses and a stone fountain, candles everywhere after dark, and there's a long green pool down the side for the afternoon. Everything is a few minutes' walk: the arch, the market, the cafés.

from CA$300per night

Lake Atitlán

Dec 8–11 · 3 nights
Day22°Night11°Clear, still mornings; wind picks up on the lake after midday, so cross by boat early.

A crater lake at 1,560 m, with three volcanoes standing straight out of the water on the far side. There are no real roads around it — you get between the villages by boat — and the hillsides above them are covered in coffee grown by Maya co-ops.

A rough timber swing hung from a branch on a small platform above the lake, with hills and turquoise water behind.
Above the water
A volcano across the lake in the haze, with two small launches crossing the blue water below it.
Boats to the villages
A village street of brightly painted buildings with a red tuk-tuk coming down the cobbles and the hillside in cloud behind.
Village street
Tue Dec 8Up to the lake
Morning

A last coffee in Antigua, then about 2h30 by car. The road drops over the crater rim and the whole lake opens up in one go.

Afternoon

Check in, late lunch on the terrace, and do nothing with the view for a while.

Evening

Watch the volcanoes go pink, then dinner at the hotel.

Wed Dec 9Across the water
Morning

Optional, and worth it: up at 4:00 for Indian Nose, a short steep climb to watch the sun come up over the lake and the volcanoes. Back for breakfast.

Afternoon

A private boat to San Juan La Laguna, where the co-ops grow and roast their own coffee — the whole process with the growers, then taste it. The murals and the weavers are in the same few streets.

Evening

Boat back at sunset, dinner at the hotel.

Thu Dec 10Chichicastenango
Morning

An hour and a half into the hills to the Thursday market, the biggest in the highlands — textiles, masks, flowers, and incense smoke on the church steps where the old Maya rites still happen.

Afternoon

Back down to the lake for a late lunch and a kayak on the water.

Evening

Last dinner on the lake.

Stay · 3 nights

A stone pavilion with a tiled roof and a fireplace beside a dark pool, backed by jungle and a steep green hillside.

Casa Palopó

Santa Catarina Palopó, Lake Atitlán · Dec 8–11

A cobalt-blue villa hanging off the cliff above the lake, full of Guatemalan art, with rooms in lime-washed colour and doors that open at the volcanoes. There's a lawn below the house with a deck and a fire pit right on the edge of the water, which is where you end up every evening. The restaurant is one of the best on the lake, the village that painted all its houses in Maya patterns is next door, and the boat dock is at the bottom of the hill.

from CA$450per night

Ambergris Caye

Dec 11–14 · 3 nights
Day28°Night22°Sea27°Mostly dry and sunny. The odd cool front can bring a breezy, cloudy day.

Belize's biggest island, a long thin strip of sand with the barrier reef running just offshore, so close you can see the line of white where the waves break on it. Nobody wears shoes and the roads are for golf carts. You're on the quiet northern end, reached by boat.

A thatched palapa at the end of a wooden pier over clear turquoise water, a leaning coconut palm in the foreground.
Piers and palapas
Reef fish over coral: an angelfish, a lionfish and a shoal of small blue fish in deep blue water.
On the reef
A small white fishing skiff moored off a weathered dock with a lobster trap on it, in shallow green-blue water.
Lobster dock
Fri Dec 11Over to the reef
Morning

Away from the lake by 7:30 — it's three hours down to Guatemala City airport.

Afternoon

The 12:50 flight lands in Belize City at 14:10, then a 15-minute island-hopper over the water to San Pedro and the hotel boat up the coast. You're on the sand by five.

Evening

Swim before dark, dinner at the hotel.

Sat Dec 12The reef
Morning

A private boat to Hol Chan, the marine reserve cut through the reef: turtles, eagle rays, huge groupers. Then Shark Ray Alley, where nurse sharks and stingrays come right up to you.

Afternoon

Lunch on the water in San Pedro, then back to do nothing.

Evening

Dinner at the hotel.

Sun Dec 13The Blue Hole
Morning

A small plane out over the Great Blue Hole — a perfect circle of deep navy in the middle of turquoise reef, 300 m across. It only really makes sense from the air.

Afternoon

Hammock, book, swim off the dock. Or half an hour by water taxi to Caye Caulker, the sleepier island next door, and a swim at the Split.

Evening

Last dinner by the water.

Mon Dec 14Home
Morning

A last swim and a late breakfast, then the island-hopper back to Belize City for the 15:20 flight. Home through Toronto, into Vancouver at 01:50.

Stay · 3 nights

Matachica from the air: thatched casitas painted in bright colours among palms on white sand, and a long pier with daybeds running out over pale turquoise water.

Matachica

North Ambergris Caye · Dec 11–14

Thatched casitas painted in mango, lime and coral, scattered through the palms on their own stretch of sand, with a hammock on every porch. The pier is the thing: a long boardwalk out over the water with daybeds on little decks along the way, which is where you'll spend most of the day, and where the boat picks you up for the reef. Mambo, the restaurant, is the one people come up the coast for. Adults only, a boat ride north of town, so it's quiet.

from CA$400per night

Flights

LegAirlineTimeCost for two
Vancouver → Guatemala City, Dec 4–5WestJet WS124 & WS2266, then Copa CM358, via Calgary and Panama City19:00 → 11:51 · 15h51CA$1,256
Guatemala City → Belize City, Dec 11TAG 5U80412:50 → 14:10 · 1h20CA$800
Belize City → San Pedro, Dec 11Tropic Air or Maya Island15 minCA$200
Belize City → Vancouver, Dec 14WestJet WS2563 & WS737, via Toronto15:20 → 01:50 · 11h30CA$666